A Thousand Half-loves

(well worth leaving for to take Your madness home)

White Privelage. September 19, 2007

Filed under: Uncategorized — megab33 @ 2:54 pm

In case you didn’t realize it or maybe you’re just not that observant, but I want to take this opportunity to clarify any confusion that there may be- I’m a white.  Yes, I am a 23 year old Caucasian female from the United States of America.  I come from a more-or-less middle class family and I’ve received seventeen years of education, including a four year bachelor’s degree program.  I have a house and electricity and indoor plumbing.  I personally own a computer.  I have a car, a bike, and a pair of rollerblades.  I have two bank accounts- checking and savings- which actually contain money (the amount doesn’t matter).  I have family and friends who loves me, imperfections and all.  

For the first time in my life, I am realizing the magnitude of what all this means. Being here in Uganda, I’ve had no choice but face my white privilege, it’s been right there in front of me since the moment I stepped off the plane in the Entebbe Airport.  Everywhere I go, there seems to be a soundtrack on repeat- “Mzungu, bye! Mzungu bye!” (mzungu is the word for white person).  I smile and wave as I pass by.  It’s hard to move through town without being stopped on several occasions to shake hands with the many children that seem to be my shadow when I foot places (footing is what they call walking here).  I must say, I prefer to be called mzungu than nangobi- which is the term for a person of royalty, of the king’s clan.  The other day, I was overwhelmed with feelings of hatred towards the color of my skin.  I hated the fact that the pale pigment of my skin placed me in a position of superiority over the people around me.  Nothing I did, nothing I said seemed to matter in that moment, all that was taken into account was the volumes my whiteness spoke.  It just doesn’t seem fair to me- that because my skin is white- I’m treating as a nangobi- a child of royalty. 

The harsh reality that my skin color speaks is becomingly exceedingly clear- it represents power, importance, status, wealth (none of these which I feel like I presently have when I’m in the States, mind you).  Yet, in this context, I do.  Even as a poor college graduate with multiple student loans which I’ll be paying off for the next 20 years, I am realizing I have an education which most here could only dream of.  There are endless opportunities of employment waiting at home there for me as a nurse; there is no need for me to worry about job security.  When it comes to power, if I disagree with a policy or law enacted by my government, I wouldn’t feel helpless, I wouldn’t just accept it. I would call my Congressman, I would lobby my cause, or I would go to Washington and participate in a march.  I suppose I have more power than I thought… I do have a voice, an influence, however small it may be. I am only one. I’m learning the truth of this statement.  In the face of the many injustices I’ve encountered, I am recognizing that I cannot change each and every one of these circumstances.  I am only one and I can’t take on the worlds’ problems and fix them.  I can, however, be fully present and engage in relationships with those who are living in their midst.  However small my voice my be, I now feel the burden of responsibility for making the stories of these people known, sharing their experiences with all those I meet.  Ignorance is no longer an excuse.  Apathy only precipitates the injustice.   Even as a woman, my whiteness places me in a position of importance over many of the Ugandan men I meet.  It’s a custom here for woman and girls to kneel in their greetings; I however, am exempt.  In fact, the occasions when I’ve tried, I’ve been scolded and told never to do it again.  For me to kneel, I’d be disrespecting those with whom I was trying to show respect.  Wherever I go, respect is given to me, not earned.  I’m always given the best seat, the first serving of food.  I do not go in want here- that’s for sure! 

My whiteness is a part of who I am, I cannot pretend that its not the color of my skin.  I can’t wake up tomorrow and suddenly fit into a crowd here in Kamuli.  As much as I despise it at times, I cannot strip myself of it.  I can’t blend in, I won’t be treated as everyone else here.  I’m white.  I’m an American.  I’m a woman.  I’m educated.  I have power and influence.  It’s so hard to explain that in America, I am on the lower end of the socioeconomic ladder- that I was a free lunch kid, a medical access youth.  

During my education, I learned about the Civil Rights’ Movement and the 1960s.  I’ve discussed diversity, racism and white privilege with friends during my college years.  Yet nothing prepared for me for what I’ve been facing here in Uganda.  In all my years of growing up on a farm in rural Pennsylvania, I was only ever acutely aware of what my white privilege was and what it meant.  I knew it existed yet I didn’t know its force.  I never had personally encountered the privileges it availed me- or I was ignorant of them which I don’t doubt to be true.  An African American friend of mine once said when talking about America (paraphrased), “that no matter if we talk about racism or not, it still exists…At the end of the day, I’m still a black man living in a pro-white world”.     

The truth of that statement is piercing- I am learning to live with its weight.  At the end of the day, here in Kamuli, Uganda, I am a white woman living in a black pro-white world.    

 

Oyee-Oyee-Uganda Cranes- Oyee! September 9, 2007

Filed under: Uncategorized — megab33 @ 3:54 pm

After an eventful weekend in Kampala, I will be traveling back to Kamuli tomorrow. I look forward to returning to my family- being away has made me miss the bringing the realization that I am really beginning to feel at home with the Issanga family. I arrived in Kampala on Thursday afternoon for a weekend MCC Uganda team meeting. It was a wonderful time of fellowship and fun tempered by a bit of discussion of policy and other MCC business related items (no worries- I won’t bore you with details here).

Meeting the other MCC Uganda workers proved to be a highlight of the weekend- I’ve heard their names multiple times in the past few weeks so finally being able to put a face to a name was nice. It was also quite encouraging to learn more about their roles in with MCC in Uganda and to get to know them as individuals and hopefully soon-to-be friends. Each person (or couple!) is unique and lively with their own set of gifts and talents- I was impressed with the diversity in our group- both in personality and work. Gann & Dale are our country reps (and fine good ones, I might add!). They live in Kampala but do lots of traveling so its rare to find them there for long periods of time. Michelle (the other SALTer) is working in the Masindi District (western) as an English teacher at a secondary school while Esther (a former SALTer who returned to Soroti for a three year term) shared about her role as an information officer for the Soroti Diocese (meaning she writes a quarterly peace news letter and helps with peace capacity building there as well). A new couple, Marika & Dale, recently arrived in August for their three year term). They will be living in Lira working with the Bora Bora Diocese to facilitate development of more permanent settlements for those Ugandans displaced by the violence in the north to IDP camps. Ben & Holly work in the more northern part of Uganda (also in Lira) where they are involved with CPA- Concerned Parents’ Association. Holly works mainly with peace initiatives (steps toward reconciliation/restorative justice) while Ben is a trained counselor focusing on the trauma in lieu of all the northern Uganda/LRA conflict.

It was an encouraging weekend as I was able to see northern Uganda through the eyes of people living there. The hope of reconciliation and peace in the midst of the many broken relationships and scarred lives make for incredible testimony and certainly have a thing or two to teach me about forgiveness and justice. Being here reminds me that there are no easy answers—but it’s also shown me that there is hope in the people here who have imagination. The weekend was also quite therapeutic as I was in dire need of interaction with other westerners. Kamuli is a beautiful town but has very few outside travelers. I’ve been fortunate to make a few friends and meet many interesting people yet I am beginning to realize the drastic differences between the Ugandan/American worldview. It was a great weekend of rest and relaxation- communication didn’t require constant engagement of all senses as life in Kamuli requires. It was also divinely timed as this part of the year is emotionally charged as a result of my family’s car accident two years ago. I praise God today for His protection that night and continuing faithfulness and love in the healing process. Another interesting connection of the weekend was the realization that Dale, the country rep, recently was diagnosed with ITP- the exact same (rare) blood disease I was treated for in high school (I have been in remission for two years now). Being able to share experiences proved to be therapeutic for both as much understanding was conveyed without the use of words but through the mutual experience with ITP.

In other, less work related but equally as important news, I celebrated my 23rd birthday on Saturday. After a morning of meetings, our MCC Uganda team cheered on the Uganda Cranes to victory over Niger in a football match. It was truly an adventure- including a police escort and a stadium full of hundreds of thousands of people complete with dancing, tribal drums beating, and lots and lots of loud yelling. A day I’ll certainly never forget! Oyee, oyee, Uganda Cranes, oyee!

 

Oyee-Oyee-Uganda Cranes- Oyee! September 9, 2007

Filed under: Uncategorized — megab33 @ 3:49 pm

After an eventful weekend in Kampala, I will be traveling back to Kamuli tomorrow.  I look forward to returning to my family- being away has made me miss the bringing the realization that I am really beginning to feel at home with the Issanga family.  I arrived in Kampala on Thursday afternoon for a weekend MCC Uganda team meeting.  It was a wonderful time of fellowship and fun tempered by a bit of discussion of policy and other MCC business related items (no worries- I won’t bore you with details here). Meeting the other MCC Uganda workers proved to be a highlight of the weekend- I’ve heard their names multiple times in the past few weeks so finally being able to put a face to a name was nice.  It was also quite encouraging to learn more about their roles in with MCC in Uganda and to get to know them as individuals and hopefully soon-to-be friends.  Each person (or couple!) is unique and lively with their own set of gifts and talents- I was impressed with the diversity in our group- both in personality and work.  Gann & Dale are our country reps (and fine good ones, I might add!).  They live in Kampala but do lots of traveling so its rare to find them there for long periods of time.  Michelle (the other SALTer) is working in the Masindi District (western) as an English teacher at a secondary school while Esther (a former SALTer who returned to Soroti for a three year term) shared about her role as an information officer for the Soroti Diocese (meaning she writes a quarterly peace news letter and helps with peace capacity building there as well).  A new couple, Marika & Dale, recently arrived in August for their three year term).  They will be living in Lira working with the Bora Bora Diocese to facilitate development of more permanent settlements for those Ugandans displaced by the violence in the north to IDP camps.  Ben & Holly work in the more northern part of Uganda (also in Lira) where they are involved with CPA- Concerned Parents’ Association.  Holly works mainly with peace initiatives (steps toward reconciliation/restorative justice) while Ben is a trained counselor focusing on the trauma in lieu of all the northern Uganda/LRA conflict. 
It was an encouraging weekend as I was able to see northern Uganda through the eyes of people living there.  The hope of reconciliation and peace in the midst of the many broken relationships and scarred lives make for incredible testimony and certainly have a thing or two to teach me about forgiveness and justice.  Being here reminds me that there are no easy answers—but it’s also shown me that there is hope in the people here who have imagination.  The weekend was also quite therapeutic as I was in dire need of  interaction with other westerners.  Kamuli is a beautiful town but has very few outside travelers.  I’ve been fortunate to make a few friends and meet many interesting people yet I am beginning to realize the drastic differences between the Ugandan/American worldview.  It was a great weekend of rest and relaxation- communication didn’t require constant engagement of all senses as life in Kamuli requires.  It was also divinely timed as this part of the year is emotionally charged as a result of my family’s car accident two years ago.  I praise God today for His protection that night and continuing faithfulness and love in the healing process.  Another interesting connection of the weekend was the realization that Dale, the country rep, recently was diagnosed with ITP- the exact same (rare) blood disease I was treated for in high school (I have been in remission for two years now).  Being able to share experiences proved to be therapeutic for both as much understanding was conveyed without the use of words but through the mutual experience with ITP. 
 

In other, less work related but equally as important news, I celebrated my 23rd birthday on Saturday.  After a morning of meetings, our MCC Uganda team cheered on the Uganda Cranes to victory over Niger in a football match.  It was truly an adventure- including a police escort and a stadium full of hundreds of thousands of people complete with dancing, tribal drums beating, and lots and lots of loud yelling.  A day I’ll certainly never forget!  Oyee, oyee, Uganda Cranes, oyee!

 

Content. September 6, 2007

Filed under: Uncategorized — megab33 @ 7:26 pm

Where to start… trying to capture in words all the new experiences and emotions felt over the course of these past few weeks here in Kamuli seem to be an insurmountable task.  It’s hard to believe that three weeks ago I said goodbye to the people and places that profoundly shaped me over these past years.  Family, friends, professors, and neighbors… the people who believed in me and encouraged me along the way (especially when I wasn’t quite so sure I’d make it to where I am today)… Being so far away from all that is familiar has a profound effect upon a person- almost like putting on glasses and being able to finally see the words on the page with clarity.  I am seeing glimpses of the many things I once took for granted- showers, toilets, and washing machines for example (Mom- you’d be so proud of me! I am learning to wash my dirty clothing by hand, squat and use a pit latrine, and bathe in a bucket!).  It’s hard work to make a meal over a charcoal fire and that a 10pm dinner is worth waiting for. 

Oh, I could go on and on about the new lessons learned! Mostly though, this past week has been a time of transition.  Each day that goes by Kamuli becomes more familiar.  My host family becomes more like friends than foreigners.  Lusoga becomes more a language I’m eager to learn and less like a bunch of mumbled indecipherable phrases.  Much of my time has been spent in language study; the rest has been dedicated to becoming more acquainted to the area and community.  I live in Kamuli Town in the Kamuli District of eastern Uganda.  My home is about 1 km from the center of town, which makes for an easy walk into the chaos.  Walking proves to be an adventure, as one must dodge boda boda men on motorcycles and bicycles, crazy drivers maneuvering around potholes, and free roaming cattle and goats.   

A few adventures worth sharing… On a recent trip to Jinja (2nd biggest city in Uganda, on Lake Victoria), I was traveling with Moureen, my language tutor.  En route, we were pulled over at a random police check because our taxi (imagine a VW bus from the 1960s) was overcrowded (25 people in a van meant to seat 15) and sanctioned by the authorities as unfit for transportation.  Needless to say, in the middle of nowhere, all were required to exit the taxi and start walking towards the direction of the next town… 10km away.  Not a single Ugandan in that taxi complained.  Not a single word of frustration was expressed.  I looked around at all those around me to see them grab their belongings and silently climb from the van and start the trek.   That’s when it hit me- I was in Uganda.  The realization that Uganda is drastically different from America (no kidding, you’re thinking) became more real to me in that moment than the weeks prior.  For many who have spent time in Africa, Ugandans are very communal- very others oriented- so much to the point that even though taxis are unsafe by everyone’s standard or overcrowded and illegal, no one will say anything.  Everyone in our taxi knew it was overcrowded, everyone could see that it was in poor repair.  Speaking up is looked down upon, disrupting the flow- even if an injustice is being addressed- is criticized.  As an American, I grew up being told to stand up for what’s right, to fight for my liberties and freedoms.  To encounter a culture which discourages the disruption of the status quo has been a frustrating experience and one in which I am daily adjusting to.  I’m trying to be patient, to set aside my American ideals and just learn from the community around me- I’ve been humbled on many occasions! 

I also started my job this past week- it’s been wonderful meeting the people with whom I will be working alongside this next year.  Mostly comprised of men in their 40s who all have full time jobs and volunteer their free time (the little they have!) to educate the Kamuli community about HIV/AIDS.  AEGY (AIDS Education Group for Youth) was formed in 1993 by concerned citizens with the objectives to decrease the spread of HIV/AIDS and its effects, strengthen the community by decreasing the socioeconomic and psychological effects of the disease, and educate the community by promoting behavior change through value-based education.  AEGY is involved in counseling (pre & post HIV test), performing home visits to clients living (and dying) with AIDS & orphans, educating children in both primary and secondary schools, providing material support to orphans and widows (goats, chickens, etc), and treatment for opportunitistic infections through community outreaches.    

All this to say, I really like my job.  I don’t doubt that this next is going to be full of challenges and tears, but in the midst of it all, I cannot imagine being anywhere else.